Polonnaruwa: A complete guide to Sri Lanka’s ancient city + map

From the 11th century up until 1310, kings ruled the island of Sri Lanka from Polonnaruwa. The medieval capital grew to be a thriving commercial and religious center, replacing the previous Kingdom of Anuradhapura.

After holding the power for almost three centuries, the seat of government was moved yet again and Polonnaruwa was abandoned for good.

In 1982 Polonnaruwa was declared a World Heritage Site, and for me, it was one of the highlights of our time in Sri Lanka. So let’s take a closer look at the must-see ruins in Polonnaruwa, how to get around and the best time to visit.

History of Polonnaruwa

Polonnaruwa rose to prominence in the 11th century after the decline of Anuradhapura, becoming the second capital of Sri Lanka under the South Indian Chola dynasty.

In 1070, the Sinhalese kingdom led by King Vijayabahu I took power and chose to keep Polonnaruwa as the capital.

It flourished under the reign of King Parakramabahu I, who is credited with developing a sophisticated irrigation system that supported agriculture and helped the city thrive.

Polonnaruwa became the hub of religious and economic activity, known for its well-planned urban layout and grand monuments.

However, its prosperity was short-lived as it faced invasions and bankruptcy, leading to its eventual abandonment. Polonnaruwa was only rediscovered in the 19th century and is today a must on any Sri Lanka itinerary.

10 must-see sights in Polonnaruwa

Before entering the actual city you have to go to the museum to purchase the tickets. All together with the driver, this was the most expensive attraction we visited in our three weeks in Sri Lanka.

You should really take your time in the museum and read up on everything, I think you’ll get more out of your visit that way.

I wish we spent more time there, looking at what the ruins might have looked like once upon a time. But I was so stressed about beating the crowds to the site, so we just skimmed through.

Here’s a map of Polonnaruwa with all the important sights and highlights the city has to offer.

1. The Royal Palace (Vejayanta Pasada)

The royal palace complex of King Parakaramabahu, or Vejayanta Pasada, is the first stop after you enter the city. His majestic palace is said to have been seven stories tall and the whole complex supposedly consisted of 1000 chambers.

Be sure to look at the miniature model in the museum to get an impression of what it might have looked like 800 years ago.

2. The Council Chamber

King Parakaramabahu’s Audience Hall, also referred to as the Council Chamber, was the meeting place of all his ministers. The structure is 23m long and 10m wide and the walls are decorated with lions and elephants.

It was fun to stand up there thinking of all the ideas and plans that might have been discussed within those pillar walls.

3. Kumara Pokuna

The Kumara Pokuna, also known as the Prince’s Pond, is a swimming pool once used by the members of the royal family and courtiers for leisure and purification rituals.

This rectangular granite pool, adorned with carved balustrades and flights of steps, portrays a sense of the luxurious lifestyle that the royalty of Polonnaruwa enjoyed.

4. The Sacred Quadrangle

The Sacred Quadrangle, also known as the Dalada Maluwa, is the most concentrated collection of structures in all of Polonnaruwa.

In the middle, you’ll find the Vatadage, a circular relic house with four entrances and four Buddhas. It is thought to have been built to hold the relic of Buddha’s tooth or the alms bowl used by Buddha.

Thuparama Gedige is the oldest and one of the most significant image houses found in Polonnaruwa, notable for its unique architectural style that combines traditional Sinhalese construction with Tamil and South Indian influences.

5. Shiva Devale No. 2

Shiva Devale No. 2 is one of the oldest structures in Polonnaruwa and stands out as a testament to the Indian influence on the island during the Chola period.

This Hindu temple, dedicated to the god Shiva, is notable for its well-preserved stone construction and intricate carvings, which have withstood the test of time.

Unlike many of the Buddhist sites in Polonnaruwa, Shiva Devale No. 2 was built entirely from stone, which has helped to preserve its original form through centuries.

6. Pabalu Vehera

Pabalu Vehera is one of the notable Buddhist stupas in Polonnaruwa. Its origins are somewhat mysterious but are believed to date back to the reign of King Parakramabahu I.

Named after the Pabalu (pearls) that were said to have been enshrined within it, the structure is surrounded by the remains of an image house, a Bodhi tree shrine, and several other religious monuments.

7. Rankoth Vehera

Rankoth Vehera is a huge dagoba in excellent condition. At 55 meters tall, it’s the largest dagoba in Polonnaruwa and the fourth largest in Sri Lanka.

Constructed under the reign of King Nissanka Malla in the 12th century, it is modeled after the famous Ruwanwelisaya stupa in Anuradhapura and is characterized by its bell-shaped dome. 

The photo on the left was shot from the side, as there was quite a lot of selfie-stick action going on at the front entrance.

8. Kiri Vehera

The construction of the incredible Kiri Vehera, meaning milk-white, is thought to have been initiated by King Parakramabahus Queen. At 24 meters tall, it’s the second largest dagoba in Polonnaruwa after Rankot Vihara.

It was so white it almost looked like an optical illusion in the bright sunlight like it was moving from side to side. Remember to remove your shoes when going inside the small brick fence, I got yelled at.

9. Lankatilaka

Lankatilaka is a cathedral-like Buddhist shrine with impressive 17 meters high and 4 meters thick walls. Even though the roof is long gone, the structure is still a majestic sight. It was one of the highlights for me in Polonnaruwa.

It’s not allowed to take pictures of someone with their back facing the Buddha statue and remember to remove your shoes. Be careful though, the sand was so hot I got blisters under my feet.

10. Gal Vihara

Gal Vihara is a group of four Buddha statues, carved from one large granite rock face.

Created during the reign of King Parakramabahu I in the 12th century, the site includes a massive 46-foot reclining Buddha, two seated Buddhas, and a standing Buddha, each depicting different aspects of the Buddha’s path to enlightenment.

According to our driver, this is the most special place in all of Polonnaruwa. And because of the pristine condition of the statues, it’s also the most visited.

How to get to Polonnaruwa

As mentioned, we drove up here while staying in Kandy. Our accommodation arranged a driver for us, I made sure he had knowledge about Polonnaruwa.

Because of the extremely hot weather, we only ended up spending about four hours inside the actual city, so we had more than enough time to do the three-hour drive each way.

We left Kandy at 7:00 am in the morning and were back at the hotel around 6:30 pm, just in time for dinner.

You also have the option to stay in a hotel right outside the city, if you want more time to explore the area. When I return I’m staying the night at Ekho Lake House, the location is absolutely gorgeous.

🎫 If you prefer to just sit back and relax, I recommend this full-day tour from Kandy. It also includes the Medirigiriya Vatadage one of the best-preserved ruins in Sri Lanka.

How to get around Polonnaruwa

1. Bicycle: Renting a bicycle is a popular and eco-friendly option to explore Polonnaruwa at your own pace. There are several rental shops around the entrances.
2. Tuk-Tuk: Hiring a tuk-tuk with a driver for the day is another common choice. It’s faster than a bicycle and provides some shade from the sun. Drivers often double as informal guides, providing information about the sites.
3. Car: If you prefer comfort, especially in the heat or rain, renting a car with a driver may be the best option. It’s more expensive than a tuk-tuk or bicycle but offers air-conditioning and the ability to cover more ground.
4. Walking: If you have the time, it is possible to walk. Just be sure to wear comfortable shoes and carry water.

I had been looking forward to renting bicycles. But when we arrived it was clear that biking would be more of a challenge than I first thought. It was so hot out, 40 degrees Celsius. After a lot of discussion back and forth, our driver convinced us to go by car.

I’m so glad he did, it turned out he had so much knowledge about the place. And of course, in addition to that, we got to cool off in the air-conditioned car between each stop.

Things to know before you visit Polonnaruwa

There’s not a lot of food options in the city. My number one tip would be to have a big breakfast before you go, especially if you’re driving up from Kandy. And pack some water and snacks.

Once inside the city, we had an ice cream at the King’s swimming pool and then at the parking lot in front of Gal Vihara, there were finally some food stalls. Pretty hungry at this point we filled up on vegetable roti and freshly squeezed lime juice. Yum!

Because of the extreme heat, you should bring a kimono and a hat. I wish I did. I got so sunburned despite applying high SPF several times. So a light-flowing kimono and a straw hat would have been perfect.

Best time to visit Polonnaruwa

Polonnaruwa is part of the cultural triangle, situated within a dry zone. The best time to visit Polonnaruwa is generally from late January to April, just after the wettest months from October to December.

Polonnaruwa is the coolest in December and January when temperatures dip below 30 degrees Celcius.

January, July and August are particularly busy. We visited in August and it was crowded and insanely hot.

Opening hours

The site is open daily from 7:00 am to 5:30 pm, however, to get the most out of your day try to get there as early as possible.

Entrance fee

Polonnaruwa entrance fee for adults is $30, children $15, SAARC Foreign adults $15 and locals can enter for free.

Polonnaruwa or Anuradhapura?

Polonnaruwa is the best choice between the two. It features a more compact and younger collection of ruins than Anuradhapura, which is easier to navigate and explore. The ruins are also very well preserved.

Anuradhapura is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world and was the first established kingdom in ancient Sri Lanka. It’s home to some of the most extensive Buddhist ruins in the country, but due to their age, most are in poor condition.

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