I spent 5 weeks in Saranda Albania: The good and the bad

After spending five weeks in Sarandë, or Saranda, I have a lot to say about this little city on Albania’s Ionian coast. Picture this: crystal-clear waters, deliciously cheap food, and some of the friendliest people you’ll meet. Sounds like paradise, right? Well… sort of.

Saranda is a place of contrasts. One minute, you’re sipping a cocktail with a perfect sea view, and the next, you’re dodging litter on the sidewalk, wondering why someone just tossed their napkin right next to the trash bin.

It’s also a little chaotic, especially in peak summer — so much so that at times, I felt like I had somehow teleported to Southeast Asia.

So to make your visit as smooth as possible, in this guide, I’ll share everything you need to know: the best beaches, where to eat, what to avoid, and how to make the most of your time here.

MY SARANDA FAVORITES
🛌 Best affordable accommodation: Alis Apartments
🏨 Best beach hotel: Golden Beach Suites, Vila Era Beach
🍽 Best restaurants: Alfa Pizzeria & Restaurant, Family Food Traditional & Grill
🚖 How to get around: Walk, taxi, bus
🎫 Best guided tour: Gjirokastër & Blue Eye, Sarandë Safari
📲 Best e-SIM: I use Airalo

How to get to Saranda

This was my third time in Albania and my second time in Saranda. The first time I made the mistake of dragging my mom along on a bus tour of Albania in August. My intentions were good, I was trying to not just get a driver like I normally do.

However, little did I know that the bus journeys would almost feel never-ending. If there’s one thing I’ve learned, Balkan bus drivers love taking long breaks.

We caught a delayed bus from Dhermi after spending four days on Drymades Beach which was a nice and calm experience. So when we got off the bus in Saranda, it was a bit of a shock.

Utter chaos, as the bus station is just a street with very narrow sidewalks. And hoards of people trying to find the right bus while maneuvering large suitcases with limited information in 35°C weather.

What to expect

If you’re thinking about visiting Saranda, let me give you the real deal—it’s a bit of a mixed bag. I spent five weeks here, and while I think it’s a great place for a long, affordable stay, I wouldn’t exactly call it the perfect summer destination.

For me, the best thing about Saranda was using it as a base to explore the south of Albania. You can easily take day trips to some absolutely incredible spots (more on that below).

Now, if you’re looking for a relaxing one-week beach holiday, I’d think twice. The beaches in Saranda itself? Mostly narrow and pebbly. There are some nice beach clubs, but if you want that soft, sandy paradise, you’ll need to head to Ksamil.

And the town? It’s a bit of a concrete jungle. Almost every building is a high-rise, and the main strip is lined with touristy bars and some questionable nightclubs. It kind of reminded me of a milder version of Magaluf, but definitely not the Mediterranean feel you might be hoping for.

Top things to see & do in Saranda

Alright, so if you find yourself in Saranda, here’s what you absolutely can’t miss. Let’s take a closer look at the best spots, coolest beach clubs, and a few hidden gems I discovered along the way.

1. Walk the Saranda Promenade at Sunset

Every evening, the main promenade fills up with people walking, chatting, and enjoying the view. The sunsets here are next level, especially with the mountains in the background. Grab a waffle and ice cream from Juice Bar (seriously, one of my favorite spots) and just soak it all in.

2. Visit Lekursi Castle for the Best View in Town

If you want a killer panoramic view of Saranda, head up to Lekursi Castle. It’s a bit of a hike (or a quick taxi ride), but totally worth it. There’s a restaurant partly set in an old ruin at the top, however, it doesn’t get the best reviews. I just walked up for the sunset views and brought my own water and snacks.

There’s also another viewpoint most people miss on the opposite hill. Just search for “Monastery of the 40 Saints” on Google Maps.

3. Dig into the Past

Right in the center of Saranda, you’ll see the remains of a 5th-century synagogue—yes, seriously. It’s just kind of… there, right next to the busy bus street. There’s not a lot of signage or explanation, but if you’re into history, it’s fascinating to imagine this area 1,500 years ago. You can still see fragments of mosaics and walls.

Just a short walk away is the Archaeological Museum, tucked right along the waterfront. It’s small, but a nice way to escape the heat for a bit and learn about the ancient city of Onhezmi (what Saranda used to be called). There are pottery fragments, statues, coins, and old inscriptions, many found right in and around the town.

Saranda used to be a fortified town, but the walls haven’t survived. Only a few pieces of the entrance gate can be seen today on the public beach. Another remaining piece of the fortification wall can be found inside the restaurant of Republika Hotel.

4. Enjoy the public beaches

Are there free beaches in Saranda? Yes, even with the rapid rate of privatization of beaches on the Albanian Riviera, there are still a few free beaches in Saranda.

Located right in the heart of the city, Saranda City Beach (Plazhi Sarandë) stretches along the promenade from the ferry terminal to Rruga Butrinti. divided into three sections, it’s the largest public beach in town and is easily accessible. 

The beach is mostly pebbly, so consider bringing water shoes for comfort. While there are areas where you can rent sun loungers and umbrellas, you’re also welcome to lay down your own towel and relax for free.

If you’re staying further out along Rruga Butrinti, there’s also a little gem of a free beach on the north side of Hotel Visad. You can take the Ksamil bus from Saranda, get off at Planet Market (Mango Beach) and then walk back a little bit. I also walked here in about 40 minutes.

7. Step back in time in Butrint

This place blew me away. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and you’re literally walking through ancient Greek, Roman, and Byzantine ruins hidden in a lush, green landscape.

There’s an old amphitheater, a giant basilica, and even a Venetian castle with an insane view. It’s only about 30 minutes from Saranda, and you can easily get there by bus or taxi.

1. The Promenade (Boulevard Hasan Tahsini)

This is not my favorite place to stay, but if you want to be right in the heart of the action, stay near the promenade. You’ll be steps away from restaurants, bars and public beaches. Just keep in mind that it gets very busy in summer and can be noisy at night.

🛏️ Where to stay >> Vale Hotel is absolutely incredible

2. Kodrra (Near the Port)

This area, just south of the port, is a little quieter and more affordable, with lots of small, family-run hotels and guesthouses. Though, this does not apply to the hotels right on the beach, which get extremely busy. In my mind, this is the area with the best beaches closest to the city center.

🛏️ Where to stay >> Vila Era Beach

3. Rruga Butrinti

If you want to get away from the biggest crowds but still be near nice beach clubs, Rruga Butrinti, southeast of the city center, is the best spot. Just keep in mind that it goes all the way from the promenade to Ksamil, so don’t go too far out.

Food

The food in Saranda is a mix of Mediterranean, Albanian, and Greek influences, with plenty of fresh seafood and grilled meats. Albanian dishes like tave kosi (baked lamb with yogurt), Fërgesë (a creamy and spicy stew) and byrek (flaky pastry filled with cheese or meat) are also must-tries.

Being so close to Greece, you’ll also find plenty of Greek-inspired dishes like souvlaki, tzatziki, and feta-loaded salads. I have to admit that I ate gyros and Greek salad at least 3 times a week.

And the best part? Food is very affordable compared to Western Europe, especially if you go to local tavernas rather than touristy spots.

Markets

I shopped for fresh fruit, vegetables and honey at Saranda Town Market (Farmer’s Market). However, it can be a little overwhelming with every vendor wanting to sell you something.

I tried to be fair and buy from many different people, including those inside where I was able to get even better prices. Don’t be afraid to bargain if you buy several items.

When I just wanted a few things I often went to the lady selling fruits and veg on Rruga Onhezmi, close to the bus station. There it was easier to browse in peace. Remember to bring a reusable bag so you don’t get plastic all the time.

Things to know before visiting Saranda

Before you pack your bags for Saranda, here are a few things I wish I had known beforehand.

1. It’s affordable, but prices spike in summer. Saranda is one of the most budget-friendly coastal destinations in Europe, but if you’re visiting in July or August, expect higher prices. If you’re on a budget, consider coming in May/June, or September/October. The weather is still great, but prices are lower, and there are fewer crowds.

2. The best beaches aren’t in Saranda itself. While Saranda has some decent beach clubs, the best beaches are outside the city. If you want white sand and turquoise water, head to Ksamil, Pulëbardha Beach or Mirror Beach. Saranda’s beaches are mostly narrow and pebbly, so don’t expect soft sand right in town.

3. It can be chaotic (especially in peak season). Saranda is a relatively small town and it gets packed in summer. And with that comes crazy traffic, honking cars, and some slightly questionable driving habits. It is also super hot, so prepare to get your patience tested.

4. Cash is king. While some places now accept credit cards, cash is still preferred, especially in small restaurants, taxis and markets. The currency is Albanian Lek (ALL), but most places also accept Euros.

ATMs are available, but some charge high fees, so it’s a good idea to withdraw larger amounts at once. I prefer the ABI Bank ATM, the fee is 500 LEK but you can just tap your card and I always get smaller notes.

5. Shop for necessities. There are not a lot of shops in Saranda where you can everyday products. Which is why I loved to shop at Rossmann & Lala close to the bus station. Here I found travel-sized products, even dish soap and laundry detergent, which are super handy when you go from apartment to apartment. I also got some gluten-free products and makeup. You can pay by card.

6. The nightlife is lively. Saranda has a decent nightlife scene in summer, but it leans a little on the touristy and tacky side. If you’re looking for laid-back bars with sea views, check out places like Haxhi, Jericho, or Sunset Saranda.

7. Getting around is easy, but public transport is limited. If you’re staying in Saranda, you can walk almost everywhere, but if you want to visit places like Ksamil or Butrint, you’ll need to take a bus, taxi, or rent a car. Buses are cheap but not always timely, and taxis don’t use meters, so negotiate the fare before you get in.

8. Get an e-SIM. I tend to forget that Albania is not in the EU, which means I can’t use my phone as normal. But luckily, these days it is super easy to just get an e-SIM. I use Airalo.

The trash problem

One thing that got me very annoyed several times was the waste management situation and some people’s habits. Everything is thrown into these big containers along the road. Nothing is recycled except for some plastic stations along the promenade.

I witnessed many times people throwing trash just straight on the ground even though there was a bin like 2 meters away. A few times I couldn’t help myself and walked over picked up the trash, looked at them and threw it in the bin.

I was in a store once and the owner just threw a handful of paper trash out on the street. Like this is someone else’s problem. I was literally stunned, so I just put down my basket and walked out.

I know we aren’t all lucky to have incredible recycling programs like in Norway, but in Europe, in 2025, there has to be a better way. At least some sort of message to not throw trash on the ground.

Not always the nicest

While I found the Albanian people to be very nice and welcoming in general, there are always some exceptions.

Walking around alone during low season, I got a bit of the same feeling I do in the Middle East. A lot of men hanging out on the streets, some staring and pointing. But while I felt uncomfortable a few times, I never felt unsafe.

I also feel like manual labor is looked down on. I witnessed several times that workers were not allowed to go into stores.

One time this big guy just pushed a little worker out, I felt so bad for him. He had a few coins and wanted to buy some bananas. There might be a backstory here, I don’t know, but it didn’t sit right with me.

Another time, I was waiting for the bus next to a group of guys, while a woman was sweeping the sidewalk around us. One of the guys just emptied his pocket of candy wrappers onto the sidewalk so she had to come back and sweep again. And, of course, everyone laughed.

Let’s make kindness and compassion cool guys! 💖